London

It’s big, brash, loud and ever-changing. It is full of history, packed with quiet corners, hidden museums, little boutiques and thoughtful theatre. It is London and it’s an enigma. Just when you think you are getting to know it, you turn your back and when you look round, it’s suddenly different ...

Like all great cities, London never stands still. Approaching the magnificent National Gallery, you no longer dodge London’s traffic, for the north side of Trafalgar Square is now pedestrianised - and site of an open-air café and concerts. (And there is less traffic in the city altogether, since a £5 charge has been levied to drive in the centre.)

Renowned collector, Charles Saatchi, has moved his unrivalled modern art collection to bigger, better premises overlooking the Thames on the revitalised South Bank, joining the Tate Modern gallery and British Airways London Eye. Colourful, wacky fashion designer, Zandra Rhodes, got it into her head to open a fashion and textile museum – which she’s done in once highly unfashionable Bermondsey.

These are just a few things that have happened in 2003, so if it has been a few years since you were here, it’s time to go back and discover the new London.

They say there is a festival celebrating something practically every weekend in London. From the new London Design Festival (September 20-28) to Diwali, the Hindu festival of light (November), or the London Festival of Chamber Music (September 23 to October 18), there’s an outstanding selection of cultural events; you will never be short of things to do.

The array of blockbuster exhibitions includes the annual Turner Prize (October 29 to January 4, 2004) at Tate Britain - always good for a bit of controversy. By contrast, Royal Treasures at The Queen’s Gallery Buckingham Palace (to February 1) demonstrates a much more traditional view of art, with the collections of monarchs over five centuries on show.
All of the big international fashion designers are represented in London, and, of course the great classic tailors that exemplify the inimitable ‘British look’ - Burberry, Pringle, Daks, with the latest in chic checks and cashmere. It is also the place to buy inexpensive catwalk copies (try Topshop and New Look), unique clothing from up-and-coming designers (especially Camden Market and Portobello Road) and – with Christmas coming - unusual presents.

Christmas is a magical time in London. While shops are filled with scrumptious food and goods screaming ‘buy me, buy me’, stores try to outdo one another with fabulous window displays, grottoes and magnificently decorated Christmas trees. Watch the seasonal lights being turned on (various venues mid-November), try a little ice-skating in the elegant courtyard of Somerset House (daily November 27 to January 25) or listen to a Christmas concert in a cathedral.

Seeing as everything else changes in London, so, of course, does the food. Out has gone outdated ideas of unimaginative dinners with gravy and custard and in has come an international, inventive cuisine. After all, this is the city boasting the most Michelin stars – with the exception only of Paris. Haute cuisine now comes from India and China (try Chutney Mary or Hakkasan) as well as from Europe and Britain (head to Lindsay House for modern British, or Rules for traditional English).

Eating out in London can be very, very good – and sometimes very expensive. But it doesn’t have to be. There’s a whole range of restaurants that emphasise value - and with 12,000 eateries in the city, there’s certainly no lack of competition. Watch for set priced lunches, from £5 in Chinatown to £25 at the stunning Connaught in Mayfair, and competitively priced pre-theatre menus in the West End.

London is home to some of the most spectacular musicals and talked-about dramatic productions in the world. Again prices can be high, but there are always special offers (two-for-ones, or same-day bargains at the official Tkts ticket booth in Leicester Square). And the capital’s club scene is legendary – always a new clubnight, always the latest celebrity DJs and the hottest sounds …every night of the week, often until dawn.

For those who prefer their nights in a comfortable hotel, in the last few years, several budget hotel chains have moved into the city. So for less than 100 Euros, there’s plenty of choice from names such as Travel Inn and Novotel. Pay a little more and you will get quintessential English country house hotels, or modern minimalist chic. Very attractive weekend rates are available at some of London’s best hotels, to attract leisure business once the corporate clients have gone home. Try Radisson Edwardian or Thistle Hotels, who have a range of centrally-located properties and some good special offers.

In September, work was completed on the Eurostar route into London Waterloo so train journeys are around 20 minutes faster. There are also plenty of bargain air fares to be had, from the big airlines such as British Airways as well as from the highly lauded budget ones. With six airports and numerous airlines serving the city, there’s plenty of choice.
To find out more about places to stay, events and attractions in London, visit the website
www.visitlondon.com