Leeds and Bradford

Though close to one another, the Yorkshire cities of Leeds and Bradford in Northern England -- only 15 minutes from each other by train – offer surprising contrasts. Both are cosmopolitan places sharing an airport and boasting fine historic buildings but there the similarity ends. Some of the best of England’s countryside lies on their doorstep.

The Yorkshire Dales, the Pennine Hills, the wild moors which provided the backdrop to “Wuthering Heights” and other Brontë family works of literature: they are all close by, and therefore within easy reach of cities all over Europe. Leeds/Bradford International Airport (where new low-cost airline Jet2 is opening up yet more links to European cities) is less than 30 minutes away, and Leeds has a rail link to Manchester International Airport.

The rich history of each city is mirrored by its architecture: the impressive solidity of Leeds Town Hall and Art Gallery; Bradford’s magnificent Wool Exchange, now Waterstone’s Bookshop, reflecting its past as wool capital of the world, as do the stately warehouses of Little Germany. The World Heritage Site of Saltaire, on the outskirts of Bradford, is a perfectly preserved model industrial village built by Titus Salt for his mill, then the biggest in Europe. On days off, his workers crossed the River Aire to the Shipley Glen Tramway which climbs up to Pleasure Grounds, an old-fashioned funfair, and to the moors. Another local line is Keighley and Worth Valley Steam Railway - it starred in the film The Railway Children - which runs to Haworth, home of the Brontës (Steam Gala Weekend , October 10-12).

Both Leeds and Bradford have strong, though distinct, cultural identities. Internationally famous for its triennial Pianoforte Competition (September 3-20), Leeds also holds an International Film Festival (in October), with Bradford¹s Animation Festival taking place in November. Theatres include the exultantly Moorish Alhambra in Bradford, the Grand Theatre which is home to Opera North and Northern Ballet Theatre in Leeds, and the modern innovative West Yorkshire Playhouse, also Leeds. For a contrast, the Leeds City Varieties, where Houdini, Marie Lloyd and Charlie Chaplin performed, still stages traditional Victorian music hall in October and April.

Art galleries and museums show each city’s individuality. While Leeds Art Gallery houses a celebrated collection of 20th century British art, with the neighbouring Henry Moore Institute (the sculptor was born nearby at Castleford) focusing on sculpture, the grand 17th century Temple Newsam House has Old Masters. In Bradford, Cartwright Hall (dedicated to the inventor of the first wool-combing machine) specialises in South Asian art (the forthcoming exhibition is on Hindu shrines) and Salt’s Mill in paintings, drawing and opera sets by Bradford-born David Hockney. Leeds has the Royal Armouries, displaying historic weapons from the Tower of London, and Harewood House, the Adam-designed 18th century stately home of the Queen’s cousin. Bradford has the famously interactive National Museum of Film, Photography and Television.

Sport is important to both. Leeds has world-famous rugby and cricket pitches in Headingley, and a Premier League football team -- it even has a boules court -- and Bradford Bulls were rugby league’s World Club Champions in 2002. Package weekends taking in fixtures are available.

Where Leeds has the advantage, perhaps, is in its lively club scene – and shopping. Its compact pedestrianised shopping district is a trendsetter. That most famous of British stores, Marks and Spencers, started here, when Michael Marks set up stall in Leeds Market in 1884 selling buttons, tablecloths and stockings, with the slogan “Don't ask the price, it’s a penny”. The Penny Bazaar developed into M&S, and the fine Market Hall in Kirkgate - built in 1904 after an architectural competition - is now base for 700 stalls, reputedly the largest covered market in Europe.

But Leeds shopping is also renowned for its sophistication, a status sealed when Harvey Nichols opened its first store outside London’s Knightsbridge. Many more specialist shops are to be found in the handsome Victoria Quarter, with its ironwork and glass arcades, or in the fine circular Corn Exchange - and, in November, Millennium Square. Christkindelmarkt , a Christmas market with wooden chalets and greenery, will sell everything traditionally German from glühwein and gingerbread to nutcrackers and clocks (November 27 – December 22).

Bradford, however, as well as boasting distinctive shops in surrounding Haworth, Salt’s Mill, Keighley and Ilkley, has the upper hand in exotic shopping: the Bombay Stores is the best known for selling sumptuous Asian fabrics and saris. And Bradford is the “curry capital” of Britain, with over 200 restaurants from the cheap and cheerful Kashmir to the more elegant Sahib. Award-winning restaurants in Leeds, its waterfront now transformed into a chic dining quarter, include the Calls Grill, Heathcotes at Simply Heathcotes serving traditional British food with a contemporary twist, and No.3 York Place where celebrity chef Simon Gueller offers modern French cuisine. But visitors should also make time to visit a “chippy”, slang for the shops serving traditional fried fish and chips.

Leeds’ affluent and lively status is indicated by a good selection of stylish hotels. There are wine bars and cafe bars, but also traditional pubs - and Leeds has its own brewery, Tetley’s. But the real ale from Timothy Taylor’s brewery in Keighley near Bradford has a real claim to fame - it is reportedly pop star Madonna’s favourite tipple.