Brighton

British cities tend to have a cathedral as their focal point, but Brighton (Brighton & Hove to give its full title) has always done things differently. Instead, this city on England’s South Coast has the Royal Pavilion, built in 1815 for the Prince Regent so that he could meet up easily with his mistress Mrs Fitzherbert.

As secret hideaways go, it's ostentatious: an exuberant, Indo-Chinese collection of minarets, pagodas and domes. That the Prince Regent, later King George IV, saw Brighton as a place to indulge himself away from the disapproving gaze of courtiers in London, is clear from the Banqueting Hall, which has a one-ton chandelier that looks as if it has emerged from the jaws of a dragon. Twenty course meals were served up from a vast kitchen where the iron pillars are disguised as palm trees. And when the Prince Regent decided to choose Brighton as a holiday destination, others followed, resulting in its stunning collection of Georgian architecture and slightly risqué reputation.

Other beaches have sand, but Brighton is pebbled and proud. It's a cosmopolitan place, only an hour south of London, with a large gay population and inhabitants who are always ready to dress up for one of Brighton's many celebrations. The Brighton Festival runs in May, with street theatre, art exhibitions and music, Gay Pride takes place at the beginning of August and winter gets into fireworks with Bonfire Night (Nov. 5). Brighton is eclectic and fun and never pretentious.

Many of Brighton's visitors fantasise about buying a house in Kemp Town, a series of white Georgian houses that face the sea front and is the poshest bit of Brighton. Kemp Town has always appealed to actors - Sir Laurence Olivier used to live there and Cate Blanchett has just moved in. At the other end of town, Paul McCartney and his new wife Heather have a house at Hove, a few doors down from DJ and record producer Fatboy Slim.

Traditionally, visitors came to Brighton to indulge in the healthy practice of sea bathing and to promenade along its piers. Palace Pier (now called Brighton Pier) was built in 1891, with arcades and a concert hall. Today, things are gaudier and a bit more high-tech; the pier houses Brighton's only permanent funfair and a video arcade has replaced the "What the Butler Saw" peep show. Entrance is free, the freshly-made doughnuts cheap and the rides, including a helter skelter, cost around £2.50 a go. Nobody who visits Brighton should miss it.

Every weekend, clubs - small, intimate venues - along the seafront are packed. Fatboy Slim is still resident DJ at Concorde 2, but there's something for every taste - electroclash at The Joint, while Funky Buddha Lounge lives up to its name with chill out music and a relaxed atmosphere. Next morning, head to the Brighton Rock Beach House in Rock Place. Among the breakfasts on offer is the 'Brighton' for £7. Order that and you get 20 cigarettes and a black coffee. In good weather, there's a Jeep to sit in. Terre a Terre in East Street, near the Lanes, is famous as a gourmet vegetarian restaurant while Brighton's poshest fish and chips are served up at the Regency, an Art Deco building near the atmospherically derelict West Pier. Brighton is second only to London for the number and variety of top-class restaurants.

More than a few things have changed since the Prince Regent's time - today, a fast train only takes an hour from London to get to Brighton (40 minutes from London Gatwick Airport). And the Lanes have become home to Brighton's slickest shops. England at Home and Vanilla in Ship Street have the latest in monochrome home décor, while Gog on East Street stocks Juicy Couture and Burberry. It's also an area known for its antique shops, selling silver and jewellery.

The city's alternative heart beats most strongly in the North Laines. Here the streets are named after smart London counterparts - Bond Street, Kensington Gardens - but prices are low and the mood playful, with organic cafes and restaurants. Clever and cheap fashion can be found at Pussy and Cutie and vintage clothing at Snoopers Paradise.