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WHICH CITY FOR ‘CAPITAL OF CULTURE’?
Six UK cities have been short-listed for the most coveted
prize in Europe: the title European Capital of Culture
2008. Though that year seems a long way off (the first
European capital will be in Ireland in 2005 and the
final UK nomination for 2008 announced by the British
Prime Minister this May) the finalists are all surprisingly
good destinations for culture vultures right now.
The
proliferation of low-cost airlines also means they have
never been more accessible: making them ideal for short
breaks or as touring bases for longer stays.
The
transformation that has taken place in the cities -
Birmingham, Bristol, Cardiff, Liverpool, Oxford and
Newcastle-Gateshead - has been remarkable. All, with
the possible exception of Oxford, were traditionally
thought of as centres of industry and commerce rather
than art and culture (the same was said of Glasgow,
Scotland, honoured as City of Culture in 1990). Things
have changed. Each has become a showcase for culture,
creativity and regeneration.
Industrial
relics have been transformed into temples of art. New
and arresting architecture is complementing the old.
Fashionable waterfronts have become places to linger.
Youthful energy and vitality is everywhere.
Birmingham,
England’s second city, 118 miles north-west of
London, has undergone a thorough makeover by award-winning
architects.
It
has more canals than Venice - now displayed to great
effect with lively waterfront complexes, notably at
Brindleyplace with its fountains and stylish restaurants.
It is home to the City of Birmingham Symphony Orchestra
(the Symphony Hall is one of Europe’s best concert
venues); ballet; theatre; opera - and notable art galleries.
There’s the City Museum with its pre-eminent collection
of pre-Raphaelite art and, at the University, the gem
of the Barber Institute, small but star-studded. There
are real gems too in the Jewellery Quarter, home to
100 designer-makers and a fascinating Discovery Centre.
Stratford-upon-Avon – heart of Shakespeare country
– is within easy reach.
Liverpool,
in north-west England, is best known for its football
– and the Beatles; the Mersey sound that revolutionised
popular music. The city still pays homage with exhibitions,
tours and live music: Paul McCartney’s childhood
home is open to visitors, with John Lennon’s expected
to open in spring 2003.
But
this was also once the richest city in England, with
magnificent buildings that befit that status, as well
as two cathedrals and Europe's largest Chinatown. On
the Mersey riverfront are the so-called Three Graces
- the Port of Liverpool, Liver and Cunard Buildings:
a Fourth Grace will be added after a recent architectural
competition. Close by, the old warehouses of Albert
Dock have been transformed into a collection of restaurants,
pubs, museums -- and Tate Liverpool, home of modern
art in the North.
On
the opposite coast, 280 miles north of London, Newcastle
upon Tyne and Gateshead are divided by the River Tyne.
The Millennium ‘winking eye’ Bridge is the
latest of several landmark bridges – so called
because it closes like an eyelid to let vessels pass.
The adjacent Baltic Centre for Contemporary Art is a
unique gallery in a vast former flour mill: don’t
miss the rooftop restaurant.
More
pleasures await at the Metro Centre, one of Europe’s
largest shopping malls with 350 stores; and in Newcastle’s
celebrated nightlife – the Geordies (as the locals
are called) know how to party! The restored Georgian
city centre has many listed buildings: it is second
only to Bath. Museums include Segedunum, marking the
most easterly Roman fort on Emperor Hadrian’s
Wall. Gateshead’s best known artwork is the Angel
of the North, a metal giant by artist Richard Gormley
dominating views from the main road and railway. The
castles and wild scenery of Northumbria are nearby.
The
re-birth of Cardiff, Wales, 155 miles west of London
and Europe’s youngest capital, is focused on Cardiff
Bay, with its lake and marina, centre for the city’s
explosion of cultural activities. The café and
restaurant quarter of Mermaid Quay offers more choice.
It
is home to an ornate castle (embellished as only the
Victorians could); the Welsh National Opera, galleries,
open-air sculptures, and five-star hotels. Visit, too,
the National Museum and Gallery of Wales, one of the
world’s largest collections of impressionist paintings,
and the Millennium Stadium, host to football and rugby
finals and rock concerts.
Bristol,
120 miles west of the capital, has also made the most
of its waterfront, its warehouses home to distinctive
restaurants and museums such as ‘At Bristol’,
a hands-on science and nature discovery centre. Temple
Meads, one of the world’s oldest rail stations,
houses the new British Empire and Commonwealth Museum,
which takes an unbiased look at the imperial past, including
the city’s part in the slave trade. The maritime
past is also recalled when you visit the Great Britain,
the world’s first ocean-going iron steamship or
The Matthew, replica of the vessel John Cabot sailed
to America in 1497.
Art
galleries range from the distinguished Arnolfini displaying
contemporary art, and the multi-cultural Kuumba. Theatres
include the Old Vic, England’s oldest continuously
working one, and the Hippodrome, where local boy Cary
Grant made his debut. Bristol’s festivals include
those celebrating kites, balloons and film, and the
Caribbean-style St. Paul’s Carnival. Bath, a World
Heritage City, is 13 miles away.
The
‘dreaming spires’ of Oxford (an hour north-west
of London) and the boats punting on the River Cherwell,
give this city a romantic as well as academic atmosphere.
The golden-stone university buildings -- all 39 colleges,
plus the Bodleian Library and Wren’s Sheldonian
Theatre – are best appreciated on a walking tour.
It
makes the most of its many literary links, especially
with children’s authors. From Lewis Carroll (Alice,
the daughter of the Dean of Christ Church, Oxford’s
largest college, was the inspiration for “Alice
in Wonderland”) to Philip Pullman; and the Inklings,
including C.S. Lewis and J.R.R. Tolkien, who used to
meet at the Eagle and Child pub.
Oxford
can also claim Britain’s first public museum -
the Ashmolean – as well as one of the most quirky
- the Pitt Rivers, the collection of one man (both have
free admission). The picturesque villages of the Cotswold
Hills are on the doorstep.
Though there can only be one Capital of Culture in 2008
there are no losers in this contest. The runners-up
will be titled Centres of Culture, ensuring they are
popular with visitors for a long time to come.
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