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GREAT BRITISH WALKS
Britain’s
National Trails are the grand-daddies of long distance
paths. This year there is a new one, following a rugged
frontier of the Roman Empire; while another –
around the coastline of South West England – is
marking its 25th anniversary. What better excuse to
come on a walking holiday?
Fresh-air
fanatics can take to the highlands of Scotland, or follow
the Pennine Hills across the backbone of England, or
scramble in rocky Snowdonia, North Wales, where the
team that first conquered Mount Everest did their training.
I prefer the walks that roll down off a grassy ridge
into a picturesque village, which -- unless you’re
very unlucky -- will have its cosy country pub serving
good beer and food.
I
also love the breezy coastal trails that track past
untouched cliffs and beaches rich in wildlife. Take
your binoculars on paths like these, and you’ll
catch sight of seals, dolphins and all manner of seabirds.
Britain
is a walker-friendly country. It’s easy to escape
to the hills by following hundreds -- no, thousands
-- of trails that come in all shapes and sizes. At the
top of the tree are the 13 National Trails, the variety
of which mirrors the country’s ever-changing landscapes.
Varying in length from 79 to 630 miles (126 –
1014 km), they take in everything from chalk downlands
to rugged mountainsides, sandy bays to river meadows.
Don’t
be put off by the length. Most walkers prefer to choose
short sections of these waymarked paths and come back
for more another time. Britain’s newest National
Trail, up on Hadrian’s Wall in the moors where
England meets Scotland, is 84 miles (134 km) long, but
most walkers will only cover a few miles at a time,
or some of the 40 circular walks that loop off the main
track.
Opened
in May 2003, the trail runs the entire length of the
great fortification built by the Romans in the 2nd century
to control their northern frontier. Today, it is still
wild, remote countryside. My favourite stretch crosses
the sharp escarpment of Great Whin Sill, where you’re
accompanied not just by Northumbria’s big skies
and wide, open spaces but also by some of the best-preserved
sections of surviving wall which, in its prime, stood
15 feet high. There’s another reason for choosing
this particular part of the trail. On Whin Sill’s
slope there’s Housesteads, the most complete Roman
fort in Britain, its bare bones laid out to give a rare
insight into life in this ancient outpost.
The
trail runs from the friendly city of Newcastle upon
Tyne to Bowness-on-Solway on the west coast, passing
close to attractive old country towns like Hexham and
Brampton and the historic city of Carlisle -- so there’s
a good choice of places to stay (from hostels, farmhouses
and bed-and-breakfasts to stylish city hotels).
For
many of us, walking can become almost a spiritual experience.
St Davids, in the south-west of Wales, is imbued with
the Celtic atmosphere that enfolds the ancient rocks
and rugged seascapes of Pembrokeshire’s shores,
or the lingering memory of early Christian saints who
settled here.
My
favourite coastal walk takes in the peninsula around
St Davids, the tiny cathedral city named after Wales’s
patron saint. Follow this particular stretch of the
186-mile (300 km) Pembrokeshire Coast Path and for the
next few hours you’ll feel as though you’re
walking on air as the route takes you past golden beaches,
remote coves, religious shrines and salty headlands.
Although small and utterly peaceful, St Davids is blessed
with a wide range of accommodation including country
house hotels and farmhouses.
Back
in England, the South West Coast Path National Trail
starts in an altogether busier place -- the seaside
resort of Minehead on the Somerset coast. But within
a few miles of the starting point (marked by a startling
new sculpture -- a pair of giant hands holding a map)
you’re up in the clouds cresting the highest sea-cliffs
in England, then down amongst the oakwoods in the country’s
thickest coastal forests.
This
year you can help celebrate the 25th anniversary of
the path, which winds its way for 630 miles (1014 km)
around the south-western finger of Britain to Poole
Harbour in Dorset. And because it takes in the popular
holiday counties of Devon and Cornwall you’ll
find plentiful accommodation en route.
The
essence of England is also to be found on the rolling
downlands of the Ridgeway National Trail, which runs
for 85 miles (137 km) across the North Wessex Downs
and Chiltern Hills from Avebury, with its prehistoric
stone circles, to Ivinghoe Beacon. It’s easy walking
and easy to get to, for the Ridgeway runs close to some
popular tourist centres, including Bath and Oxford.
It
is ‘Britain’s oldest road’, which
has existed for thousands of years: follow in the footsteps
of prehistoric man, medieval farmers and 17th-century
drovers.
It’s
the same story throughout England and Wales, where you’re
never more than 50 miles (80 km) from a National Trail.
There is even one through the centre of London: the
Thames Path that follows the river to its source in
the Cotswold Hills.
There are countless shorter trails, too: forest paths,
nature trails and waymarked walks waiting to be explored.
So do yourself a favour and pack your walking boots
when you come to Britain. There’s no better way
of getting to grips with the country.
If
you lack the time or confidence to plan your own independent
walks, there are a number of operators who specialise
in organised walking tours – luxury or budget,
gentle-paced or energetic. Every detail is taken care
of: they even carry your luggage between stops. Either
way, a good starting point is VisitBritain’s website:
www.visitbritain.com/outdoor.
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