Electric Radiant Floor Warming: the Affordable Luxury
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Mountain climbers have an old saying: "Don't
cheat your feet." A homeowner might consider this
advice when building or remodeling a bathroom or kitchen
floor.
For floors, homeowners know that
ceramic, slate or marble tiles and wood laminates are
attractive and durable alternatives to hardwood, carpet
or vinyl. They want the beauty of tile floors, but their
feet tell them they're cold.
While most people are comfortable
with air temperatures of 65 to 75 degrees, they tend
to feel uncomfortable if there's more than a 5-degree
difference between the surface temperature (80 to 85
degrees) of the head and that of the feet. A bare foot
gives an immediate indication as to the comfort level
of any floor. For this reason alone, tile is often not
the flooring of choice.
With a tiny amount of heat supplied
by a human foot, carpet fibers warm almost instantaneously
to "foot" temperature, about 83 degrees. A
ceramic tile can't compete in this race: its mass needs
a lot more heat for a longer amount of time. It would
take approximately 30 minutes for a human foot to increase
a 68-degree marble floor to foot temperature!
Radiant floor warming systems
solve this problem -- fast!
The most common radiant floor
warming systems are either hydronic (circulating hot
water in tubes under the floor) or electric (heating
cables under the floor). Hydronic systems are more complicated,
requiring pumps and valves and modulators and so on,
and, as a result, are a lot more expensive to install
than electric. Still, for whole house heating solutions,
hydronic systems are a good choice. By contrast, electric
systems are inexpensive enough for single room applications
and simple enough for handy do-it-yourselfers to install.
Suitable for new construction
or remodeling applications, many electric floor warming
systems include a network of cables installed in the
mortar just below the tiles. These cables gently warm
the tiles, operating on ordinary house current. While
using a professional electrician is advised for those
not comfortable working on electrical installations,
these systems are generally easy to install and will
not compromise the integrity of the tile installation.
Designing a floor warming installation
first requires a determination of the area to be warmed.
Calculating the total square footage will require collecting
information from the blueprints of the room or actually
measuring the area itself. It should be noted that areas
that are inaccessible or under vanities, cabinets, or
plumbing fixtures should not be included -- there's
no need to heat floor area that won't be walked on!
When making the calculations it is advisable to design
a layout that considers actual use and traffic patterns
in the area to be warmed. Using care in measuring and
calculating the area will help ensure that the proper
cable is selected for the installation. Preformed mats
can also be selected to simplify the installation, but
cable systems have the advantage of providing better
area coverage.
Easy Heat's Warm Tiles cables
are available as an off-the-shelf product in a growing
number of distribution channels, including retail. Easy
Heat also provides mats in stock and custom sizes. Programmable
thermostats, available with setback features, help ensure
that the cables are only heating the floor when the
homeowner desires. Floor heating thermostats differ
from room heating thermostats in that they have a sensor
that extends down into the floor to sense the actual
floor temperature, and to control the cables’
output accordingly, usually at about 85 degrees. Today,
floor warming thermostats are available with sophisticated
programming features as well.
A complete system often can be
installed using an electric drill and other ordinary
hand tools. The installation process can be completed
in three phases that will likely correspond with the
construction or remodeling phases of your home or building.
Phase one -- Electrical Rough-in
During the electrical rough-in,
the electrical box for the thermostat is installed,
and the power supply cable pulled into it. Conduit holes
are drilled into the wall plate (a two-by-four on the
floor at the bottom of the wall) to enable the heating
cable leads and thermostat sensor to be pulled into
the electrical box.
Phase two -- Install Cables
For new construction, the cables
are installed only after the drywall is finished and
immediately prior to the tile installation. The cables
are provided with plastic strapping that is stapled
to the floor, and the heating cable is simply woven
over the floor on the strapping. The leads of the cable
and the thermostat sensor are routed through the conduit
holes and up to the electrical box.
Phase three –- Apply thin-set
mortar and install floor
A "scratch coat" of
mortar (just enough to cover the cables) is then applied
and allowed to dry, usually just a day. Then, the flooring
can be completed in the usual manner.
Phase four -- Thermostat and Power
Connection
The last phase calls for the installation
of the thermostat and connection to the power source.
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