Damp Problems in Houses
FAQ
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input.
Disclaimer; This page is for advice only and no warranty
of any sort is implied.
Damp is a problem in some houses.
It can result in the growth of moulds and fungi, damage
to the interior (and exterior) decor, wood rot, and
ultimately damage to the structure of the building.
Damp problems are normally from
one of three causes;
This can be due to poor insulation, poor ventilation,
overcrowded accommodation, or poor control of water
vapour generation.
Rising damp
This is water rising by capillary action,
and is due to a Damp Proof Course (DPC) which has
either been bridged or breached.
Water Ingress; This is where water is entering the
building from above the DPC. A faulty roof, brickwork
defects, faulty rainwater goods, or leaky plumbing
could all be responsible.
The first phase of any remedial work is to assess
where the damp is coming from. Condensation should
be obvious, and often the problems associated with
it are widespread. Rising damp normally only affects
the building up to about 4' from ground level, while
water ingress tends to affect the upper parts of a
building.
The second phase is to eliminate
the problem. Sometimes the solution is simple and
inexpensive, other times it is the Job From Hell.
Poor insulation can be remedied by foam injection
into the wall cavity, or there is a foam coating for
walls which is applied like wallpaper, and then decorated
over. Condensation onto single-glazed windows is to
be expected during cold weather.
Poor ventilation is often caused by air-bricks being
papered over internally, or worse still being bricked
up. An external inspection will reveal which rooms
should have an airbrick, and approximately where.
You can also try going around each room tapping or
prodding the wall firmly at about 9" below the
ceiling every 6" on the external walls. If you
find a soft patch try pushing e.g. a screwdriver into
it firmly. If it penetrates, you have found the airbrick.
Another technique is to draw the curtains on a bright
day, shut the door and allow your eyes to acclimatize,
you may see a patch of light shining through the paper.
Cut the paper clear, and fit a decorative grille.
You may have to strip the wallpaper and plaster to
find the bricking- up, or if you can get a metal rod
into the airbrick from the outside and hit it hard,
this may break the obstruction through. Another avenue
of approach, particularly for bathrooms and kitchens
is the fitting of an extractor fan.
Overcrowding causes damp problems
because the amount of water vapour generated in a
house is roughly proportional to the number of people
in it. The only practical approach, other than kicking
the in-laws out, is to invest in a dehumidifier. The
trouble with these is that according to my back-of-an-envelope
calculations, every litre of water condensed uses
just over 1 kWh of electricity assuming 60% efficiency.
They may also need frequent emptying.
Controlling excess water vapour
generation is a matter of common sense. Do not leave
the shower running for 5 minutes before you use it,
and simmer saucepans rather than using a rolling boil.
Unvented fuel heating (e.g. paraffin heaters or portable
gas heaters) produces a huge amount of water vapour.
Approximately for every pint of paraffin you burn,
you produce a pint of water in the form of vapour.
Roof condensation is normally because the gap at the
eaves has been blocked. The solution is obvious.